Thursday, June 2, 2016

A new project - the physiotherapy Granville (1.1)

I've been having some health problems, and developed mild to moderate ataxia in my arms and legs. I'm off work until I regain better use of my hands, at that needs physio. Well, sewing with it's cutting, machine work, and ironing uses lots of different muscle groups in my arms so what better way to enjoy your physiotherapy?

 I've had the pattern for the Granville Shirt for a long time, since not long after I bought the Minoru jacket pattern. I haven't had much time to sew because of having two small children and a no craft room so the pattern and the fabric destined for it sat unused. I decided to give it a shot after much review of the tutorials and looking at other blogger's shirts. I know I'm slightly pear-shaped, with a bit thicker waist now after two kids so I decided to make a wearable muslin out of hand-me-down fabric from a friend instead of basting in waste fabric.

 I initially sewed it with no alterations to the pattern pieces or the instructions (Size 4), but after turning the collar points I decided to round off and narrow the cuffs slightly so that I didn't have to make 4 more of those points! I have quite long arms for my height so I didn't shorten the sleeves at all - we'll see how they fit once I attach the cuffs (they were narrowed because I somehow nicked off a corner on one piece, so I took 1/4" off a long edge). I also decided to fit the sleeve caps in flat because I usually have better fit that way, then sewed up the body and side sleeves in one. After doing this and putting it on, I realised I needed a smidge more room in the waist. I added the equivalent to 1cm to each side back and front piece and graded it smoothly into the bust darts and hips. This really helped the fit. I also noticed some pooling in the lower back so I might try and add a bit of a swayback alteration, which is easier with princess seams. I'm also considering sewing all the seams with 1/2" seam allowance just to lend a bit more room for movement. The sleeve plackets went really well and I'm super pleased with how good I was able to get my collar to look. I just need to hem and attach the cuffs and the shirt is done!

 I'm also going to be making it in the fabric I originally bought for it - a light puckered cotton (possibly gauze?) with a large white, pale green, and pale blue plaid pattern. I'm going to add contrast quilting cotton to this one, on the sleeve plackets, inner collar stand, and under collar. I'll do the same thing (contrast cotton) on a pink linen shirt, and I have enough linen to also consider making a sleeveless version.

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